Benches in Bjelovar

When the people of Bjelovar, Croatia, heard that an American had come to live there, eyebrows were raised. When they learned it was because I was writing about their town, heads were scratched. When I took to the streets with my camera, I was stopped and asked why. The citizens just couldn’t comprehend a foreigner finding their town interesting. The appeal seemed so obvious to me, and I didn’t understand how they didn’t understand.   

Having visited for a few days on a previous trip, I had been captivated by the charm. Certainly, the centuries-old baroque cathedral that stood overlooking the beautiful city park had spoken to me. Quaint and colorful cottages sitting atop green rolling hills surrounding the area made my heart smile. Cool outdoor coffee bars lining the Korzo (promenade) served me not only a cappuccino but a work of art. Then there was the outdoor market, exploding in colors, where I spent my mornings overloading the basket on my bicycle with farm fresh food. 

But what I witnessed in that park every day is what had the most profound effect on me. Benches were pulled close together facing each other in almost every section of the park. This is where elderly men gathered to discuss politics and the weather. Teenage boys sat with elbows on their thighs, heads close together as if they were sharing state secrets, or at least high school secrets. Girls leaned their heads on the shoulders of their boyfriends. Old couples held hands waiting for church to start. Co-workers assembled in small tight groups eating their lunches. Teenage girls sat arm in arm, plotting their futures. Passing friends and neighbors stopped to visit and, regardless of the age, would greet each other with a kiss on each cheek. 

Park employees would routinely return the benches back to their proper places every morning, but this was a futile effort. By lunch time, the benches had all been paired up again. Each day I would sit in the park gazebo, eating my lunch, and marvel at the display of affection.

In the four months I lived in Croatia, I spent a great deal of time exploring this fascinating country. Between adventures, I found great joy in returning to my home at the edge of the city park. 

The longer I lived in Bjelovar the less the locals questioned me about why I was there. Instead, they thanked me for reminding them of what a beautiful life they enjoy in their lovely town.