Lifedigs: A Tale of Two Cities: Part I

Sometimes the traveling portion of a trip is the biggest part of the adventure. The last two weekends I was fortunate enough to have visited the historic and important towns of Varaẑdin and Samobor. I suppose if I wasn’t traveling alone or if I spoke better Croatian I wouldn't end up as the star of my misadventures. I guess it just makes everything that much more memorable.

The first of the two travels was to Varaẑdin. Rich in history, it is known for its Baroque architecture and charming Stari Grad (old town). Facing a 3 day weekend, I decided to take the Friday afternoon train and stay until Sunday. Because there was not a direct train, you have to connect in Koprivnica and change trains. While I didn’t think this was such a big deal, the train station attendant was so concerned about me getting confused that he didn’t want to sell me the ticket. As it turns out, my Bjelovar friends were a little concerned for me as well. I wasn’t worried in the least. So what if I got lost? I hear Slovenia is lovely this time of year.

It was still an hour before my train departure when I arrived at the station so I decided to look for a restroom. I should have known better as I never have good luck in this department. After asking around, I was told they didn’t have one but there was one in the adjacent bar. Of course, no Croatian train station worth its salt wouldn’t have a bar but…it appeared restrooms were optional. When I opened the door, loud Croatian folk music (you know the kind with accordions that sounds a little like polka music) came blasting out and I could barely see the old men staring at me through the haze of smoke. Quickly, I slammed the door shut. No way was I going in there. I turned to look at my friend who was laughing. OK, OK, OK. I took a deep breath and walked in and headed straight for the door that said TOILET. Men were calling after me but I just pushed on. Unfortunately, there was no ladies’ room, only men’s. Was it so unlikely that a woman would visit this establishment that they don’t even bother with one? I walked in and out of the stall over and over trying to decide what to do. Well, I came this far. Let’s just say I made the best of an awkward situation. Surprisingly, there were soap and paper towels. As I walked out, this time much faster than I entered, the men called after me again. I wonder what they would have done if I had answered back in perfect Croatian. Actually, what I should have done is sat down for an interview with these colorful characters. I’ll probably get another chance since they are likely to still be there.

The train ride was a really nice experience. It goes through beautiful country side giving me an opportunity to take photos from the train. I couldn’t decide which side of the train had better villages to photograph so I kept swapping sides. I’d take photos from one side and then hop across the aisle to the other. I noticed I was being watched and I can only guess what the other passengers were thinking. I just wish I had figured out that the windows opened earlier on.

I was the oldest person on the train by about double. It was filled with young people commuting to and from school. It never occurred to me that high school students who lived in the rural towns would have to go by train to get to school.

With an hour layover in Koprivnica, I had time to walk around the town for a bit. Lugging my ridiculously heavy suitcase prevented me from going very far, though. How can 2 days worth of clothes and a laptop be so heavy? After about 30 minutes I thought I might have wandered too far. That would be just my luck to miss the damn train. As I was walking back to the station I was watching a lady pushing a stroller with 2 kids and I was thinking “wouldn’t it be funny if I ran into someone I knew?” As the lady came closer into view, I realized I knew HER!!I know exactly 3 people in Koprivnica and she was one of them! I won’t state the obvious small world cliché at this point…but it is!! Unfortunately, there wasn’t enough time for a visit over coffee but I promised to return soon.

When my train finally arrived to beautiful Varaẑdin I looked down to make sure I wasn’t actually bouncing in my seat. I knew the town wasn’t going to disappoint but just to be away for the weekend was nice. Hotels are very expensive in this tourist town. But the Varaẑdin Facebook page steered me to “private accommodations” which were more than reasonable. I chose Pansion Maltar which had raving reviews on the internet. It’s much like a hotel just smaller. There is a coffee bar that serves breakfast in the morning and of course coffee and beer all day long. The rooms are very small but have a twin bed, a desk and a private bath. What more does one person need? And it’s half the price of a hotel.

After getting settled into my room there was a knock on my door. They accidentally put me in the wrong room. It was a room larger and more expensive than the one quoted to me via email. My choices were to pay the difference and stay or lug my stuff up to the smaller room on the next floor (no elevators). I had already completely unpacked my bags so I just agreed to pay the extra charge. I don’t think that’s exactly how it would have been handled back home.

I spent the next 2 days surveying every street, alley, building and point of interest. I photographed what seemed like every square inch from different angles and times of day. My meals were snacks I bought at the supermarket so I could save money and time. A quick look at the menus in the main square showed meals to be frighteningly expensive. And besides, with a sun that is so low in the sky already at 4:30 there was no time for the inconvenience of eating!! However I would like to give props to the Pansion Malter. The breakfast that was included with my stay was fantastic! I was served coffee with cream that after my first sip I think I actually moaned. A tray of fresh fruit, fresh bread with pate, jam and cream cheese were then brought while I waited for my ham and eggs. It was heaven.

A side note to the above paragraph: The Croatian diet includes a lot of bread. I really try to limit my carbs to mostly fruit and veggies. So when the very sweet employee came to my table to ask if I would like bread while I waited for my ham and eggs I said no. The look she gave me was of utter disbelief. So I said ok. She delivered the bread and array of spreads that looked really delicious. I was determined to avoid the bread on this trip but I really wanted to try the pate. So I ate the spreads with my spoon. It was very tasty but I doubt very healthy. Now what? She is going to see the spread is gone but the bread is intact. She is going to think I am crazy. So I took one piece of bread and hid it in my purse and took another piece of bread and tore it to pieces on my plate so it looked like I was eating it. Yes, I am crazy.

On Sunday I said goodbye to beautiful Varaẑdin and walked back to the train station. I was very early so I thought I would just sit in the station and work on my laptop. That was not possible due to the constant bombardment of local beggars who would not take no for an answer. While I am not unsympathetic to the needs of the misfortunate, I can spot a con artist preying on unassuming tourists.

Across the street was a hotel with a coffee bar. I went there and had a relaxing hour sitting in the outdoor café, working on my computer, drinking coffee and having a very nice conversation with my server, Ivan. He was fascinated to meet a Texan. He even ran across the street at one point to check on my train time.

Finally, it was time to board the train. The conductor looked at my ticket and said something in Croatian that ended with Klostar. I knew this was the town we connect in and wait for passengers to get on so I just shook my head proud of myself that I could figure out what he was saying from context. Yeah, right. About an hour later, we are sitting at the Klostar station and I’m playing Flappy Bird on my phone when the conductor comes charging in. He points at me and yells “You!! Bjelovar!!” I look up at him and it takes a second to sink in. “I change here?” I ask. “Yes! Hurry!” he says. I grabbed all my stuff and he carried my bag to the train on the other track that was sitting there waiting for me. People are opening their windows of the train and looking out trying to figure out what is going on. He hands my luggage to the new conductor who is smiling at me and I’m sure I could read his mind. So, I guess that was what the first conductor was trying to tell me earlier. Had he not been so observant to keep an eye on me I might just have ended up in Slovenia….well Serbia anyway.

Enjoy these photos of Varaẑdin. Next time...Part II

Town Hall

Varazdin Castle

On Saturday afternoon, I made friends with a group of 20 somethings from all over the world; Nicaragua, Greece, Turkey, Croatia and Great Britain. They were volunteering on a project in Croatia.