It’s been over a year since I left Croatia. While I only lived here for 4 months, my love for the country grew deep. Now I’m getting to experience it again with my daughter and relive the discoveries through her eyes.
Two weeks ago we arrived to the town of Bjelovar. This is where I lived and worked last year. We will be making it our “home base” as we travel around. I was lucky enough to arrange the stay at my apartment from last year. That really did make it feel like returning home. Getting to visit and reconnect with my friends and some of the students has been a real treat. I still haven’t run into the old man in my building but I’m really looking forward to seeing the look on his face when he sees me.
Not much has changed in the town. Some of the businesses I remember walking past on the streets are gone and new ones have popped up. The city’s landmark pavilion in my favorite park is being renovated. And now there is free WiFi when you sit in that park! Now it’s my favorite favorite park.
There are still practically more coffee bars than people and still very few restaurants. The law says if you want to serve food, your establishment must be non-smoking. Bar owners clearly believe they will do more business catering to the smokers than the diners. So while you can enjoy an espresso or beer just about anywhere in town during all of the waking hours, you should probably eat before you leave home. An added note about WiFi…All of these establishments offer free WiFi and because I’ve drank coffee at so many of them it’s like I have free WiFi all over town. Everywhere I go my phone is dinging from the internet connections it’s making. It’s really kind of funny.
My favorite restaurant is still Restaran Bjelovar. They serve the best pizza I’ve had in Europe and it instantly became my daughter’s favorite. Now to be fair, it’s the ONLY restaurant she has been to so far but she does request it everyday. The menu is in Croatian only but pretty easy to figure out. My daughter orders the Quattro Formaggio. How can you go wrong there? That’s not even Croatian. And I just order anything that doesn’t have the word jaje (egg) in it. Yes, that exists. The pizza is served uncut and I think most people eat it with a knife and fork. The building is very old with the original brick on the inside. It definitely adds to the whole dining experience.
We have driven through and visited the beautiful countryside that surrounds Bjelovar several times. This was always my favorite part. I can never get enough of looking at the village homes with flowers exploding from every window backdropped by green rolling hills with the big yellow church as the focal point. It always makes me want to say, “Stop the car!!!" Next blog…We travel!
People all around the world are fascinated with Texas. Every time I travel, people’s eyes light up when they find out I’m a Texan. But The Lone Star State is somewhat of a mystery to those not from these parts. Visions of the desert and gun-slinging-horse-riding cowboys fill many heads. Sometimes the entire extent of their knowledge is based on JFK or J.R. Ewing. You may shake your head at that, but what do you really remember of seventh grade Texas History class? What makes our state and its history so important anyway?
On New Year’s Day, I drove down to San Antonio to spend a couple of days taking in the sights of the downtown area. Sure I’ve been to the Alamo and walked the famous River Walk before. I’ve even been splashed by an orca or two at SeaWorld. But as the years have passed, I have certainly forgotten what a historical powerhouse this country’s 7th largest city is. Yes, I HAVE forgotten the Alamo.
I stayed in a hotel along the San Antonio River in downtown which gave me front door, er…backdoor, access to the River Walk. Because it was Christmas time, the thousands of cypress trees that landscape the walk were dripping with multi-colored lights. I was excited to get to explore the paths of the stone lined river and peak into the art galleries and quaint shops.
The three days I was there, an unusual mix of wintery weather welcomed Kansas State fans for the Alamo Bowl. Freezing temperatures didn’t slow down these folks. Every restaurant I passed was filled with purple clad-margarita sipping football fans…even in the early morning hours.
The River Walk is actually below the streets of downtown San Antonio. It offers easy access to places like the Alamo, San Antonio Museum of Art and Market Square. A mass development project in the 1900’s transformed the downtown area into the vibrant tourist district it is today. It is also the nation’s largest urban ecosystem.
At some point you will want to climb up the steps from the River Walk onto the city streets and find the Alamo. It’s less than a 10 minute walk. If you were expecting grand and heart stopping you might be disappointed. As you turn the corner into the Alamo Plaza, you find yourself standing in front of a very average size building. Time has eroded the original compound that once covered almost three acres. But what it lacks in size it certainly makes up for in importance. Built as a mission in 1718, it would be another 100 years before it would rightfully earn a prominent place in Texas history.
For those of us who have forgotten everything they learned in their middle school Texas history class, there is a historical timeline on the property detailing every battle leading up to Texas winning its independence from Mexico to be its own country.
Of course, all of its history is important. But one battle was different. The Battle of the Alamo was a place where volunteer soldiers took on impossible odds to fight Mexican forces led by Santa Anna. It resulted in the loss of lives of all of its nearly 200 defenders but it significantly slowed down Santa Anna’s army. Their courage and sacrifice inspired and rallied latter forces in subsequent battles to beat the invaders. Today the battle cry, Remember the Alamo, and the mission represent freedom and all who fight for it.
Today the shrine remains hallowed ground. As you stand in line to enter the mission Rules of Reverence are posted before you:
•Gentlemen, please remove your hats inside the Shrine.
•No open containers are allowed inside the buildings.
•No food or drinks are allowed inside the buildings.
•Photography is not allowed inside the buildings.
•No camera or cell phone use is permitted inside the buildings.
•Please do not touch the walls or display cases inside the Shrine.
•No pets are allowed on Alamo Grounds (service animals allowed).
•No restrooms inside the Shrine. Public restrooms located at back of grounds.
•No obscene or offensive clothing is allowed.
•No bikes or skateboards are allowed on the grounds.
•Please lower your voice when speaking.
•No unauthorized weapons are allowed. CHL allowed with permit.
•Ice chests are allowed but must not be left unattended at any time.
Yes, you read that right. Cell phones are not allowed, but guns are. (For my foreign readers: CHL is a concealed handgun license. You can lawfully carry a concealed gun on your body with the proper training and license in Texas.)
Once you feel you have adequately enriched your mind, head over to the Market Square and enrich your senses. This 3 block indoor market is full of authentic shops, restaurants and culture. Mariachi bands, handcrafted works of art and gourmet Mexican food await you. I bought my son an authentic sombrero. I got some funny looks from the people I was with. “Trust me,” I said. “He will love it.” And that he did!
So next time you travel to (or through) San Antonio, be sure and take some time to visit the downtown area. Peaceful strolls on the River Walk and margaritas backdropped with Mariachi music are for sure in your future. But don’t forget to visit The Alamo (and the other missions!) while you are there. You will leave with your chest slightly puffed up, proud to be a Texan.
The Daughters of the Republic of Texas have been the caretakers of the Alamo since 1905. For more information visit http://www.drtinfo.org
With my time in Croatia quickly coming to an end, I was determined to squeeze in every last excursion. While researching places to visit online, I stumbled on Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. Not realizing it was just across the border, the beautiful photos captured my attention. My project is to write about Croatia, not Slovenia. But since both were part of the former Yugoslavia, share a border and speak practically the same language I justified the trip.
I have become quite skilled at finding good accommodation online. Websites that provide photos, maps and reviews offer a comprehensive way to choose the perfect place. I zeroed in on a room for rent that claimed to be in the heart of town, recently renovated and very reasonably priced. The icing on the cake was that they gave me explicit instructions on how to get there by train from Zagreb. So, on a Sunday I made reservations for arrival the very next day! Last minute travel plans are always the most exciting!
From my apartment, I walked to the train station in Bjelovar for travel to Zagreb. From there I take the nonstop train to Ljubjlana. The train is coming from Belgrade, Serbia and is already 10 minutes late. Several passengers are standing on the platform looking around and checking their watches. I decide to stop a passing conductor and ask him what the problem is. He looks up at one of the monitors and says that our train will be seven hours late. My mouth drops open. Really?? Seven hours?? Trains running late is fairly normal but seven hours late is not. All sorts of ideas fly through my head. I could visit my friend Mark who lives close by or I could do some sight seeing in Zagreb to pass the time. I go into the terminal and ask someone at the information desk if she knows exactly when the train is going to be here and she says it should arrive in the next 5 minutes. Glad I double checked!! What was that conductor thinking??
Sure enough, the train arrives 5 minutes later. I am pleasantly surprised to see that my train has individual compartments and is not very crowded. So I have a whole compartment to myself. The windows open so I spend most of the trip with them rolled down taking photographs. I make sure to keep the camera strap around my neck so I don't drop it out of the window! Even when I am holding my IPhone taking video I am holding it with both hands. I could practically see the image of my lime green phone in the Slovenian Hills as the train pulls away.
Less than an hour into the trip we reach the Slovenian border. Both Croatian and Slovenian border guards board the train and check our passports. The landscape changes almost instantly as we enter Slovenia. The green landscape gets greener and the hills get hillier. We follow the River Sava through the mountains into what can be best described as a scene from a Hans Christian Andersen fable. It was fantastic! Adding to the dramatic effect, I notice that all of the homes have very steep roofs. Later it was explained to me that this is to keep the weight of the snow off of the homes. Makes sense.
When we arrive to Ljubjlana I am starving. I practically race off of the train and make a beeline in the direction of Old Town. According to my instructions I am to turn right at the Dragon Bridge. Sure enough, I am greeted by 2 large dragon statues at the Ljubljanica River. One of the legends of the dragons is from Greek mythology where Jason and his Argonauts killed a dragon in Ljubljana. The other legend involves St. George, the patron saint of the Ljubljana Castle Chapel built in the 15th century. He is commonly depicted killing a dragon in paintings. Others believe the dragon was just added as decoration to the Ljubjlana coat of arms.
Just a few steps down from the Dragon Bridge I find my apartment...right on the river! It's a fabulous location and I can't believe how lucky I am. The inside is completely renovated and it is like staying in a brand new and modern hotel. I spend exactly 60 seconds freshening up and hit the pavement to find a restaurant.
The first outdoor restaurant I come to looks nice enough so I plop down and take in my view of the Ljubljanica River which travels into Old Town. I order a smoked salmon salad and the waiter brings
me fresh rolls. I get out my camera and start shooting photos from my seat. Out of the corner of my eye I notice the napkin of my bread basket moving. When I look down a sparrow pops out from under the napkin, clearly helping himself to my dinner rolls. He looks at me and then sticks his head back under the napkin for some more bread. He continues this popping in and out for quite some time which gives me an opportunity to catch it on film. If it wasn't so hilarious I would be annoyed because it's really good bread and I don't want to share. A little while later I am holding a small piece of bread between my fingers when a very aggressive sparrow swoops down and snatches it out of my hand. The waiter tells me not to feed the birds. Ha!
With only 48 hours to spend in Ljubjlana I make this quick itinerary of things to see and do.
River boat cruise
Train to castle
Outdoor Market
Tivoli Park
The river boat cruise, which costs 10 euros, is relaxing and a good way to see some of the city. I admit I am more interested in the 4 different conversations going on around me in 4 different languages: Italian, Spanish, German and Slovenian. The way each culture interacts with each other is similar but with subtle differences. It's probably not a surprise that the Italians talk the loudest.
View from the river boat.
I look up and see the imposing castle up on the hill and know that's my next stop.
Ljubljana Castle
The tourist train to the Ljubjlana Castle originates at the city centre and departs every hour on the hour. It's really more like a tram you would find at an amusement park. The price of the roundtrip ticket is only 4 Euros and it sure beats the walk straight up into the hills. When you get to the top there is a wonderful view of the city. I think most people would be satisfied if that were the only attraction. But look to your left and you are standing in front of a 15th century castle! Originally built by the Habsburgs (and it seems like everything is) for protection from Turkish invasions, the castle has served many purposes over the centuries. It's been a hospital, and arsenal, a jail and a refuge for ostracized Ljubljana citizens.
Ljubljana Castle
After touring the inside of the castle I take a coffee break in the courtyard. It's a very relaxing moment and I think how lucky Europeans are to be surrounded by such amazing beauty and majesty everyday of their lives. I look around at the other coffee drinkers (they each have a dog with them, by the way) and they look more like locals than tourists. Can you imagine telling your friend to meet you at the castle for coffee or telling your boss you are taking your coffee break up at the castle?
Ljubljana's Central Market stretches between the Dragon Bridge and the Triple Bridge in the city center. It includes an outdoor market in Vodnikov Square and a covered market along the river. It is an explosion of color and smells from the beautiful produce and flowers of local farmers to the fresh bread baked in wood fired ovens. You can find smoked meats, fresh cheese, even clothing and shoes. The citizens of Ljubljana show up to do a little shopping and a lot of mingling. I want to buy something from every booth but I settle on a handful of tangerines.
I walk over to the Triple Bridge and take a rest at the Statue of the Slovenian poet, France Prešeren. I eat a tangerine and people watch. The pedestrians all seem to be tourists and the hundreds of bicyclists seem to be locals. Street performers compete for your attention and your tips. One particular group of men is singing traditional folk songs (with a Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra song thrown in every so often). I can't tell what language they are singing but I think they are fantastic.
My last item on the checklist is Tivoli Park. Designed in 1813, it's a 10 minute walk from the city center and covers over 1,200 acres. Here you will find locals sitting under trees reading books and picnicking, groups of college kids playing soccer, bike riders zipping through, and people relaxing on park benches. It's beautiful, peaceful and a perfect final tourist stop for my trip.
I find the people in Ljubjlana to be extremely friendly, hip and a bit funky. As a matter of fact, the town is pretty funky. Many shops are brightly colored with unique handmade items crafted by the designers themselves at a work table in the middle of the store. Even though this is a capital city, the attitude everywhere seems to be very relaxed with a small town feel. I've never been to Amsterdam but I imagine it's a lot like this.
Sadly, it is time to head home (My Croatian home, that is). This time I share a compartment on the train with a Serbian man named Zravko. We have a great conversation and he explains to me he is half Croatian, half Serbian, works in Zurich and lives in Belgrade. Now that's quite a commute! I show him the video I took of the men singing in Ljubljana and he exclaimed, "Gypsy music!" I tell him how much I loved it and I thought it sounded like Croatian or Serbian folk music. He explains that they sound very similar and says he has a present for me. He reaches into his suitcase and pulls out a boxed set of gypsy music. Each CD is music from a different country, Hungary, Croatian, Romania, etc. I tell him I can't accept such a nice gift and he waves me off. He says, "I collect gypsy music and I have thousands of cd's."
I don't know why I wanted so badly to have a compartment to myself. Sharing stories with locals is a fantastic way to learn about their culture and just a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
The view from the train ride home.
You can view more photos of Ljubljana at the gallery on my website:
Lipik is a small, sleepy town in the Slavonian region of Croatia. My friend, Sanja, invited me to spend the Easter weekend at her family home there. The town is well known for its hot spring water, its Lipizzaner horses and more recently for damage it sustained in the Croatian War of Independence.
The drive to Lipik is a familiar one. Not because I have been there before but because of the gorgeous rolling hillsides I have come to know and love. I could just stare out the car window forever at the landscape that is so green it practically vibrates. I have to bite my tongue to keep from constantly asking to pullover and let me take photos.
We arrive Saturday afternoon to Sanja's childhood home. Her father lives there alone but his son and family live in the adjacent house next door. It is very common in Croatia for adult children to live with or next to their parents. All of Sanja's family welcomes me like part of the family and it reminds me of my big Italian family back home. (Just put some more pasta on the stove, everyone is welcome.)
The children come over to dye eggs in the traditional Croatian way. Eggs are tied up with cut pieces of panty hose and pressed with leaves and other items found in the yard. Then they are soaked with yellow onion shells in boiling water. When they are finished cooking they turn out a beautiful dark crimson color. Then the eggs are rubbed with lard to give it a nice sheen. It makes for great family fun and builds to the excitement of Easter.
After the eggs are finished, we prepare for lunch. Sanja's father is cooking fish called Šaran na rašljama, over an open flame outside. Sanja's sister-in-law, Manuela, lays out a fantastic spread. Plates of homemade sausage, the Šaran fish, fresh cheese with cream, bread...and let's not forget the Rakija are served. Croatians drink their own version of schnapps called Rakija. But don't let that fool you. It's nothing like the sweet and mild liquor served in the U.S. The best way I can describe it is like pure grain alcohol with a fruit essence. It's definitely not for amateurs but it is surprisingly good. Hey, when in Rome...
To walk off our lunch I get a private tour of the town. The population is small, only about 2,000 people. (and they all seem to know each other) The streets are lined with quaint homes in typical Croatian style. In the center of town is a beautiful park with a gazebo. Inside the gazebo are fountains where hot spring water flows. The water is used for medicinal purposes at the local hospital and spas and bottled at the Studenac bottling company.
From just about anywhere in town the smokestack of the Lipik Glass factory can be seen. Unique minerals found in Lipik make it perfect for glass production. Owned by an Italian company, the glass is produced for Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Ferraris, Aston Martins and MacLarens. It's the main industry and major employer of the town. Sanja's brother, Igor, works there as well.
As we walk down the streets I get to see first hand the damage the town sustained during the war. Estates of Croatian wealthy are leftabandoned and pock marked by bullets and grenades. It's a profound and somber experience for me. I am never sure what to say to those who lived it.
Later, Igor gives me a tour by car up into the green hills and I ask him if I could get out and take photos. He gives me a determined "no!" Within minutes I figure out why. Signs warning of land mines line the streets. Many homes that were destroyed in this area have been rebuilt. But their owners left during the war and never returned. These vacant homes stand as constant reminders of that turbulent time.
He then brings me to the famous Lipizzaner Horse Stables for another private tour. How lucky am I that Sanja's brother is on a first name basis with the stable keeper? Croatia has more than 200 years of experience breeding these high quality sport horses and has the largest population of Lipizzaner horses in the world. In 2007, Croatia had more than a thousand Lipizzaners, out of 6000-7000 in the world.
In 1991, during the War of Independence, 27 of the stallions were killed and 80 stolen by the Serbian Army. After years of negotiations, petitions that circulated worldwide, and international media coverage, 66 of these horses were returned to Lipik. Only 8 were originals, the rest were the children. The citizens of Lipik described it as the return of their soul.
Each stable I tour houses a different age group of the Lipizzaner. The foals are born black and as they age turn to grey and then to white. As I am standing there taking photos one of them comes behind me and nuzzles against my ear. Another sticks his nose in my camera trying to investigate it. It's hard not to fall in love with these beauties.
Finally it's time to leave to return home for dinner. I sit in the back seat of the car thinking how beautiful the property is. Right before we exit we pass a large building that has a huge starburst hole in the center, clearly the evidence of a grenade. My brain has a hard time reconciling the images.
We return in time for dinner. Manuela has prepared another wonderful meal and, of course, more Rakija. When I finally retire to bed I am completely spent. Staring at the ceiling, listening to the sounds of silence outside I feel so relaxed.It is so incredibly peaceful here that I can practically feel my heart rate slow down. And it appears I am not the only one. Earlier, as we were driving through a neighborhood, 2 large dogs were sleeping in the middle of the street preventing us from passing. As we got closer they looked up at us, as if to say "What's the problem?"
The next morning, Easter morning, I get ready before anyone else wakes. I'm sitting on the edge of the bed when I see Mr. Papić shuffle his feet to the bathroom. He stops when he sees me and slowly looks up. Then he gives me a beaming smile and throws up his hand in a wave and exclaims, "Dobro jutro!" (good morning!) It was really sweet and funny at the same time.
The tradition in Croatia on Easter morning is to greet people by shaking hands, kissing on both cheeks and saying Sretan Uskrs! (Happy Easter) It's great to see EVERYONE do it. I attend Mass with Igor, Manuela and the kids. It appears most of the town is there. The children's choir sit in the middle of the church led by a nun. This nun, who stood close to us, took her job very seriously. She would let each of us know if we were not singing loudly enough. But the hymns were all in Croatian. So every time the nun would look my way I would sing "watermelon, watermelon" so not to get in trouble.
After church, we have another fabulous meal. I'm not sure how Manuela found the time to cook so much great food. I'm positive I will be leaving Lipik 5 lbs. heavier, though.
Sadly, it is time to leave. The whole family is there to give us a proper send off. Mr. Papić loads me up with homemade honey and Easter eggs. We hug, say our good byes and make promises for a return visit. When we drive off into the green countryside, it occurs to me that I will probably never be able to return to Lipik. Soon I will be leaving Croatia. But I will forever carry the memory of this lovely town and these lovely people in my heart.
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