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Saturday, September 28, 2013

Arp, Texas


Ever been to East Texas?  Of course.  Ever been to Tyler? Sure.  Ever been to Arp? Um, huh?  This is what I was thinking when someone recently told me they lived in the town of Arp, Texas.   How could there be a place so close to the D/FW area  I’ve never even heard of.  I decided it needed further investigation.

Just minutes southeast of Tyler, you can find Arp off of Highways 64 and 135.  The town began as a stop on the Missouri Pacific Railroad in the mid 1800’s.  Originally named Jarvis Switch, the town changed its named to Strawberry Junction and finally renamed itself to Arp after a famous newspaper reporter.   

My excursion to Arp begins on a bright sunny day of mild Fall weather.  My daughter accompanies me and my plan is to meet up with my friend who lives there.  One of the first sights to greet me before I get into town is a rustic red barn facing the highway.  In the field was the obligatory longhorn resting in the grass and staring at me.  The scene was just begging to have its picture taken.  I pull  over on the side of the road to grab my camera.  There wasn’t much of a shoulder so I am pretty close to the traffic.  The next 18 wheeler that comes by practically takes me out.  To get the best picture it requires actually crossing the highway.  I look back to the car and see my daughter cover her eyes.  When I decide I have the right picture I run back to the car and try not to trip.

 
When I get to the Arp city limits I decide to get out and take another picture. Again, narrow shoulder. Again, aggressive 18 wheelers.  Again, my daughter yelling at me to not get killed.  I miss getting hit but the fire ants get me.  The drivers of some of those trucks I'm sure get a good laugh at me jumping up and down trying to knock the biting ants off of me.   I decide it's time to quit the extreme photogging and continue on our journey. 

I finally catch up with my friend, Laura, who would turn out to be our unofficial Arp tour guide for the day.  As an educator in the Arp ISD I can think of no one better suited.   The first place she wants to show me are the ruins of a college that closed over 100 years ago.  Just outside of town, we stop the car next to a wooded area.  She gets out of the car and begins telling us the history of the college.  Confused, I look around trying to find where the heck this college might be.  Then Laura starts walking into the thick woods saying, “If you didn’t know it, you would never know it”.  We follow her into the woods about 20 feet or so pushing the vines and branches out of our way.  And then, with my jaw dropped,  I am standing in front of the crumbled facade of the Summer Hill Select School.   I can't believe it. 


 Steps lead up to a brick wall mostly covered in graffiti and vines.  Apparently, this is the place of choice for teenagers to hang out away from the watching eyes of their parents.  We walk up the steps and through the entrance into the belly of what used to be the school's gymnasium.  The roof is nothing more than a steel frame with tree branches snaking through it.

 
We have to carefully climb through a window and scale down a wall to go further.  When we get to the dirt floor we look around stunned at what we see.  Partial stone walls surround us encasing the thick green growth of trees, vines, and ground cover. The ground is damp and every vine looks like a snake to me.  Curiosity and trepidation battle each other inside of me as I look around not sure where to go next. 
 
 
Our unofficial tour guide, Laura.
 
 I let Laura lead the way to the back side of the school.  Enormous rock walls stand in remarkably good shape.  It's hard to believe a school so well respected that it attracted students from all over the country now stands cloaked and camouflaged by the forest from the rest of the world. It truly is this community's best kept secret.
 




 
 
We head back to the car and I'm thinking it will be difficult to top this discovery.  But we venture on. 
Laura drives us around this sweet and peaceful town pointing out houses that have been homes to important citizens in their history.  Generations of the same families have lived in many of these homes.  She tells me that low property tax and close proximity to Tyler keep residents in Arp.   For a small town, there are quite a few churches.  At least 5 by my count.  However only one bank.  As a matter of fact, when Laura told me to meet her at the bank, I responded, "Which one?"  She laughed and said,  "There is only one." 
Old mailbox
 
 
 
 
 
There is not a traditional grocery store in town.  You can buy most staple food items at the Valero, otherwise you need to travel to the next large town to do your major shopping.  Below is a building that  if you look closely to the top you can see where it used to say Piggly Wiggly. 
 
 
There are two large cemeteries, The Mason and Ebenezer.  Both were founded in the 1800's.  As we respectfully walked around reading names and dates, we notice than a good number of people were alive before Texas was a state.  What history these people must have witnessed!  Many of the family names on the tombstones are still the names of  Arp residents today.  I even recognize one of the names from Laura's history lesson she gave us.
 

 
Our last significant point of interest is in a nearby town of Old London.  An awful tragedy happened there in 1937.  Fortunately, something very important and life saving was the result of it.  Below is the text from its historical marker:
 
On March 18, 1937 a massive explosion destroyed the New London Junior-Senior High School instantly killing an estimated 296 students and teachers.  The subsequent deaths of victims from injuries sustained that day brought the final death count to 311.  The explosion was blamed on the natural gas leak beneath the school building.  Within weeks of the disaster the Texas Legislature passed  a law requiring an odor to be added to natural gas which was previously odorless and therefore undetectable. 
 
Can you imagine the devastation to such a small town? They lost practically every teenager in the community.  I never knew this is why an odor was added to natural gas. 
 
(the current) New London High School
 
We end our day with a delicious meal at Bruno's Pizza in Tyler.   It was interesting to see how bustling Tyler seemed compared to Arp.  Living in Dallas, I consider Tyler the sleepy town. Funny how our perspective changes with the backdrop. 
 
My daughter and I drove back home facing the setting west sun.  As the sky grew dark I thought about how much I enjoyed my day.  I always say there is a story everywhere and Arp certainly has theirs. 
 
 
A big thank you to Laura Dacus for our tour and a lovely time. 

 
 
 
 

16 comments:

  1. Love this story! I am from a small town and can relate to a lot of it especially there being 5 churches and 1 bank in town. I want to take a trip to Arp one day.

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  2. What a beautiful job! It was a.pleasure to show you around my home town. Some people may not realize it, but Guy V. Lewis, a famous basketball coach for the University of Houston is from Arp. He coached the Cougars to numerous championships. He was recently inducted into the National Basketball Hall of Fame. His story was on the front page of the Houston Chronicle a couple of weeks ago. In the last line of the article, Lewis says he wants to be remembered as just a good old boy from Arp, Texas.

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  3. I just bought the house that belongs to that old mail box. It's not as old as you think.

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  4. What a great story. My grandparents lived just outside Arp and I spent many a summer in the area, in fact I was just there last weekend visiting. I never heard of the Select School and will have to look that up next time. The explosion at the New London school also claimed the life of one of my father's sisters. Strange how interwoven our lives are with a small area.

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  5. 70 year old from troup tx.April 10, 2015 at 6:26 PM

    so glad you got pictures of the school in omen. wish someone would clean the area of the buildings so it could be seen. like you said..many people in the area knows nothing about its existance..

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  6. My father grew up in Arp, and graduated from Arp HS. I believe that is the Mason Cemetary in the picture. My father and all of my grandparents are buried there. Until I moved to Missouri in the early 80's, I attended church in Wright City, just down Hwy. 64. I don't know much about the history of the area, other than visits to grandparents and driving through to church 2 and 3 times a week. Enjoyed learning about the College.

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  7. Bum Phillips, Coach of The Houston Oilers and The New Orleans Saints was also born in Arp. My Sister married a Phillips - My Brother-In-Law's Dad was Bum Phillips Brother . . . His Mother was Guy Lewis' Sister thus, Bum Phillips and Guy Lewis were both his Uncle. Oh! by the way, my Brother-in-law was also born in Arp. LOL

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    1. Bum Phillips was not born in Arp.

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  8. my husband was born in Arp in 1944..His mother, Catherine Wood , was a teacher for many years in Arp and principal at the Jr. High as well.....we still own the red brick house up on the hill at hwy 64 and hwy 135 as you exit to go to Arp....Guy Lewis and A.D Wood, my father-in-law, owned a hardware store in Arp for a number of years....Both A.D. and Catherine Wood are buried in Masons cemetery...We have attended the Church of Christ there in Arp...not sure if it is still there...as we moved away many years ago...My mother- in- law attended a finishing school there in Omen....Could it be the school mentioned in the article ? I think yes...

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  9. My grandparents owned the shoe repair store/candy store in Arp for years. We loved going to Arp when we were kids. We played in the park right behind their store and they lived in the back of it. Great times! The Morrow family.

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  10. I've lived in Arp since 1981. I've been to the old school many times, even a few months ago with a metal detector (nothing special to report on that front, sad to say.) My parents were janitors at the Arp School for 30+ years. I've heard the story about the New London School explosion all my life but never heard that it was the reason for the odor being added. It's so great to hear stories about my hometown. Great job, loved it.

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  11. My aunt and uncle lived in Arp many years ago and we used to visit them - before air conditioning. My cousin and I thought we were going to die in the heat, but it was worth it for a chunk of my aunt's peanut butter fudge. They owned the old Gillispie hardware store, right down from Mitchel's Pharmacy, with it's soda fountain. We loved to play in the hardware store which had everything from rope and nails to dishes and needles. The city park was just outside the back door. What I didn't know was that Uncle John also sold caskets upstairs. Glad I never ventured up there or it would have taken a whole plate of peanut butter fudge to lure me back for another visit.

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  13. Wow...didn't know about the old school but then saw a comment that it was in Omen. Both of my parents grew up in Arp and lots of my family still lives there. I visited every weekend for most of my life. My great grandfather also owned and ran the general store many moons ago. Another
    interesting fact is that Bonnie and Clyde went through Arp and I think even robbed the bank. Thank you for doing a great story on our Arp, Texas. I love it!
    Michelle Cole

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  14. I grew up in Arp. The people are Trashy, and closed-minded. I bet trump does well there. On the bright side, it's beautiful

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  15. Have had family in Arp since the 1850s - Mason, Bateman, Williams. My parents grews up there. Mom and dad moved back in the late 1990s. Mom worked at one of the theaters (there were 2) in the 40s. Find it very sad when I return now.

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