Palo Duro Canyon

When you tell someone you are taking a road trip across the United States their eyes light up with excitement.  Then when you tell them you are doing it solo their eyes squint and their brows furrow in confusion.  "Alone?? Aren’t you scared?” was always the question.  “Scared of what?” I would reply.

Everyone should get behind the wheel and take a solo road trip at least once in their life.  It is one of the most liberating and empowering experiences. You are free to blaze your own trail, work at your own pace, and stop to enjoy all the things that make you happy. For me, this trip was about adventure, new discovery, finding peace and getting close to nature.  It absolutely wasn’t about following the well-traveled road to the next tourist spot, although sometimes I found myself there.

Of course, photography was a major component of my trip and often times the driving force.  I hoped my experiences would translate into unique perspectives through my camera lens. As much as I subscribe to the “wake up and make it up” philosophy, lighting requirements would dictate much of my travel plans.   So while I wasn’t always sure where I was going or what I was going to do when I got there, sunrise/set times and weather reports became my compass and tour guide.

First leg of the trip: Ft. Worth to Amarillo

My journey began on a Saturday morning driving northwest on Hwy 287 stopping in Amarillo. I would be staying one night in my first ever Airbnb home and visit Palo Duro Canyon.  I was so excited to be on my road trip I had dreamed about for months I thought I might jump out of my skin.   I found a 70’s funk station on Pandora and spent a lot of time dancing and singing in my car seat.  Another benefit to traveling solo.

About an hour up the highway I passed a store with the sign “Texas Greatest Beef Jerkey”.  I pulled into the parking lot and stared at the sign.  I had to fight the urge to go inside and tell them “Congratulations on Texas greatest beef jerky!” like the scene in the movie “Elf”.  Moving on…

The landscape didn’t change too much.  It became a little greener, well at least less brown and a lot more rural.  Every so often I would stop to take a photo of an abandoned barn in a field or a resting longhorn.  Because it was July in Texa, I wore sandals while driving but kept a pair of cowboy boots in the trunk.  Each time I would pull over to the side of the road I slipped on the boots. Rattlesnakes and fire ants can be a real roadside hazard, especially when you are walking deeper and deeper into the tall grass to compose the “perfect shot”.

I arrived to Amarillo an hour earlier than GPS told me I would so I was happy about that. The Airbnb home in which I was staying was nestled in a precious park like neighborhood under a canopy of mature trees.  The houses were all 1950’s style architecture that reminded me of Austin, Texas.  I was adamant about sticking to a tight budget on this trip and chose the bed and breakfast for its reasonable $35/night fee.  The fact it was such a great property with a convenient location was icing on the cake. After a quick visit with my hosts, I got directions to the Canyon and flew out the door. 

The drive was only about 30 minutes and went through some really interesting panhandle-ranch land. As I approached the entrance to the park, I saw an enormous crack in the ground that made my mouth drop open.  After driving for so many hours across very flat prairies, this was the first evidence that a canyon might actually exist.  I remember thinking, “I hope animals don’t fall into that.”

I used my state park pass to enter, got a map, and asked for the best location to take a sunset photo.  The very young park employee told me the first overlook I came to would give me the best views.  So, off I went.  

Very quickly I arrived to the overlook and got out.  The engulfing panoramic view is more than 180 degrees.  Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest in the United States behind the Grand Canyon.  At 120 miles long and 20 miles wide it seems to go on indefinitely.  There are only 6 miles of park road, everything else is back country.  The park warns hikers of snakes and flash floods and requires everyone to have on them a gallon of water each. From the looks of the raw and wild base of the canyon I’m thankful back country hiking is not on today’s itinerary.

It was in my head that I wanted a sunset picture with the sun behind the cliffs.  The overlook was on the west side facing east.  This really frustrated me, thinking the park ranger didn’t know anything.  I took a few wide angle shots facing east.  The sun was still a little high in the sky but when it started to make its decent it would happen quickly.  The view was really magnificent so I knew it would be in a blaze of glory at sunset.  I hopped back in my car and drove the trails.  It winded around camping areas, trail heads and washed out roads.  Clearly they have gotten a lot of rain recently. 

At one point, a family of wild turkeys was standing in the middle of the road.  I got out of the car and followed them into the brush.  I took a few photos of them but watching their silly behavior was pretty good entertainment.

The road was very windy and hilly at times.  This was great for all kinds of make shift overlook points.  I would stand on the hood of my car or climb some rocks big enough to be called boulders, always being mindful of hiding rattlesnakes.  I had a different kind of lens in every pocket on my body.  I switched between wide angle, telephoto, and in between.  This juggling act became my routine through much of my trip.

At one overlook spot, I walked out onto a cliff overhang that jets out in to the canyon pretty far. The wind is crazy strong here and I’m feeling like it might pick me up and carry me into the canyon.  It's impossible to get a decent picture because the wind is shaking me so badly and I find myself standing at a 60 degree angle.  Preferring to not have my trip come to a sudden and tragic end before it even begins, I hunt for a less windy spot.

Back in the car I drove to the end of the official park road. I got out to take some photos when I realized I was getting close to losing the sun.  This is when it dawns on me that the official sunset might be at 9 o’clock but it’s going to disappear behind the cliffs much sooner.  Now I’m back in my car moving at a determined pace to return to the first overlook.

As I got out of my car, I saw the sun in perfect position.  It had lit up the east side of the canyon with its golden color and painted everything in gorgeous rich hues.  Maybe the park employee did know a thing or two.  I took photos switching back and forth between my array of lenses.  (on a side note, always change your lenses in your car and not outside.  A wind gust came thru right as I took one of my lenses off and blew sand onto my sensor.  I would spend the rest of my trip editing tiny spots off all my images in PS)  I Facetimed my husband and one of my friends to show them the incredible view.  I stayed until the sun started to disappear behind the cliffs and decided I didn’t want to make the unfamiliar journey back in total darkness. 

Before I exited the park, I stopped to visit a group of longhorns grazing in a field.  It had been such a whirl wind day I really needed a minute to gather my thoughts before I returned.  Looking around, I appeared to be the last person in the park.  I saw no people and no cars, just me and my long horned friends.  I wondered if I should lock the gates as I leave??

Driving back to Amarillo I felt very pleased with the day.  I made it to my first location and got exactly what I came for.  I would sleep well tonight in my air conditioned room and comfy bed.  It would be the last time I had those luxuries for a while.

The next leg of the trip…traveling to Colorado via New Mexico.

Miles driven: 439

States traveled: 1

For more information about Palo Duro Canyon or Texas State Park passes click here

Hiking the Chisos Mountains in Big Bend

When I told people I was traveling to Big Bend, more often than not they would respond with, “Where is that?”  As one of the largest of all the National Parks, Big Bend is one of the least visited.  I suppose that has to do with how remote it is, being located hundreds of miles from any major city.  But if you are looking for a little more solitude and a lot less concrete it is so worth the drive!

Big Bend National Park is located in far west Texas along the border with Mexico where the Rio Grande “bends” through the Chihuahuan desert.  The landscape is rugged, the people are few and the wildlife rules.  Having adapted to the extreme weather and terrain conditions, a unique array of animals and plants thrive there.   More species of birds, cacti and bats reside there than any other park in the United States.  Mountain lions and brown bear roam under cover and herds of javelinas snort about care free.

Coming from Marathon, the drive to the north entrance of the park is about 40 miles.  The long drive into the park through the Chihuahuan desert is breath taking.  You simply must get out of the car to look around.  I kept asking myself how can such a place exist?  While we were far from home we were not THAT far! Fields of blooming cacti in the foreground and ancient rock formations in the background completely surround you.  I have never felt so wonderfully isolated in my whole life. 

Mule Ears Peak in the Chihuahuan Desert

When you arrive to the entrance a park employee will charge you a mere $25 for your entire car load of guests. The fee is good for 7 days.  Think about that for a moment.  A family of say, 5 people, can have a week’s worth of entertainment in nature’s playground for $5 a person. Where else can you do that? You are given a map of the park and the rest is up to you.

We decided to spend one full day hiking the Lost Mine Trail in the Chisos Mountains.  If you only have time to hike one trail this is probably the one.  The trail is not too difficult and the panoramic views are amazing. We stopped at the Ranger station in the Chisos Basin Visitor’s Center to get a trail map and find out where the cougar and bear sightings were.  I’ve been told many times that the black bear are not interested in people.  That is, of course, you don’t stumble onto a momma and her cubs.  The cougars, or sometimes called mountain lions or panthers, are a different story.  Solo hikers and families with small children are strongly discouraged from hiking trails that have recent cougar sightings.

As excited as I was to be in Big Bend and all its natural wonder, I was apprehensive about an unexpected encounter with a creature larger than me. To ease my mind, we decided to bring bear spray we had purchased at Cabela’s.   This is basically pepper spray but with a spraying distance of 40 feet.  While it didn’t say intended for cougars on the can it did give me some peace of mind. 

It was late November and the weather was perfectly mild with a cool mountain breeze.  We had walking sticks on hand and those would prove to be very helpful. The trail begins at 5,600’ elevation and is about 5 miles from beginning to end.   Good hiking boots are a must as most of the trail is steep and rocky. There are plenty of overlook spots to take photos (or pretend you are so you can catch your breath). 

The view from Juniper Canyon

We saw lots of birds, funny road runners on the trail and soaring raptors overhead.  The closest we got to a bear was walking over the scat (poop) along the trail.  There was lots of it and it usually looked pretty fresh.  We heard rattlesnakes in the brush when we would get off the path to take photos so watch where you put your feet!

We were really worn out by the time we got to the top.  There were a few joking comments from other hikers about hoping there was a Starbucks.  But what you see when you get there is far better than any over-priced coffee. The view simply leaves you speechless.  You can see what seems like a 1,000 miles in any direction (and one of those directions is Mexico!)  Because it was November, the low angle of the sun lit up the rich fall colors in the foliage adding to the perfect moment. 

As I was taking photos, I spotted a pretty little cactus sitting in the sun.  I took its photo with the sun shining down creating a nice back light. It struck me what a lucky cactus it was.  It  didn’t need much other than a small amount of water and it gets to sit soaking up the sun in all of God’s splendor every day. A lucky cactus indeed. 

It was time to make the trip back down.  That went a lot faster! We passed hikers that were just starting to make the hike up.  I wondered if they realized they would be hiking in the dark soon.

Thoroughly exhausted, we practically collapsed when we got back to the car.  Giddy from our awesome experience we fumbled for the map to find our way to our next adventure……

Terlingua.

Helpful links: 
Big Bend National Park/ US National Park Service
Visit Big Bend

Big Bend and Marathon

Did you know there is a magical place in Texas with over a million acres of rugged mountains, deep canyons, and awesome vistas? A place where black bears and mountain lions share trails with hikers and bikers? Where you can follow the Rio Grande through the desert and then the mountains for hours and never see another car?  A place where inspiration, beauty, and peacefulness are all competing with each other?

The Big Bend area of West Texas is this place.   And I looked forward to this trip more than almost anything.  The allure of the desert had me hooked and my mind was spinning at all the discovery possibilities.  

“Getting there” should always be a part of the experience.  So we opted for the state highway routes through the Hill Country instead of the interstates. (But if you MUST get there in a hurry I10 or I20 would definitely be the faster options.) This gave us a chance to stop quite often in small towns along the way to have a look around at the old Main Streets and Victorian neighborhoods.

We continued driving southwest towards our first destination, Marathon. As we chased the sun into the horizon the landscape changed from hill country to desert.   The blazing amber sunset backlit all of the desert  brush and was begging me to photograph it.  So, of course, I did.

Once it was dark the world around us became black.   There were no lights from street lamps and no lights from towns in the distance. We could only see what our headlights captured.   We felt alone in the Texas desert and it was spooky and cool at the same time. We weren't alone, though.   There was an entire world of desert life out in the brush just beyond the reach of our headlights.  Every once in a while we would see a mule deer here, a family of javelinas there, and large bunnies zipping around. 

Eventually, we made it to Marathon.    Considered, the Gateway to Big Bend, this town stays alive because of tourism.  It isn’t much more than a post office, soda shop, some funky art shops and oh yeah…The Gage Hotel.

Click here to visit The Gage Hotel

This is one COOL hotel.  Built in 1927, the property consists of pueblo style adobe rooms, casistas and a mission style hotel. Our room had Saltillo tile floors, cowhide rugs, antique Mexican doors, a kiva fireplace and sat outside a beautiful Mexican courtyard. The one thing it didn’t have…a TV.  And I’m so glad it didn’t! Something about feeling slightly cut off from the world added to authenticity of the experience.  

At the back of the property is the Captain Shepard House, also for rent.  Built in 1890, it is named for the man who founded and named Marathon.  Supposedly, the captain named it that because the mountains bore a striking resemblance to those in Marathon, Greece.  I think I should probably go to Greece to confirm this. 

The feeling of being cut off from the world dissipated a bit when we arrived to the restaurant, The 12 Gage. We had reservations and it was a good thing we did, because it was hopping.  The hotel is not that big and it’s literally in the middle of nowhere so I’m not sure where all the people came from.  We were shown to our table where we sat in a cozy corner under a mounted longhorn.  The wine list was extensive and the menu was small but everything was top rate. It was all pretty pricey but it's probably not cheap getting Ahi tuna shipped to the middle of the desert. 

Next to the restaurant is the White Buffalo Bar.   Yes, there is a mounted white buffalo on the wall. It was also filled with people who overflowed into the large patio section where bands play in the summer months.  Everyone seemed to be relaxed and having a good time. That could be due to the extensive tequila selection and fantastic margaritas for which they are known.  

We got up early the next morning to take a walk around the hotel grounds and town. In one of the courtyards is "The Longhorn Wall" where cattle skulls are mounted in the shape of a longhorn head.  That was fun to photograph!

Later we stumbled into the 27 acre Gage Gardens across the railroad tracks. This beautifully landscaped garden with ponds, fountains and bird sanctuary is a real oasis in the desert.  We had a leisurely stroll to enjoy a little bird watching and plan our day. It was the perfect icing on the cake before we headed off to our next destination.

Next…Terlingua and Big Bend National Park

Easter in Lipik

Lipik is a small, sleepy town in the Slavonian region of Croatia.  My friend, Sanja, invited me to spend the Easter weekend at her family home there.  The town is well known for its hot spring water, its Lipizzaner horses and more recently for damage it sustained in the Croatian War of Independence. 

The drive to Lipik is a familiar one.  Not because I have been there before but because of the gorgeous rolling hillsides I have come to know and love.  I could just stare out the car window forever at the landscape that is so green it practically vibrates.  I have to bite my tongue to keep from constantly asking to pullover so I can take photos.  

We arrive Saturday afternoon to Sanja's childhood home.  Her father lives there alone but his son and family live in the adjacent house next door.  It is very common in Croatia for adult children to live with or next to their parents.  All of Sanja's family welcomes me like part of the family and it reminds me of my big Italian family back home.  (Just put some more pasta on the stove, everyone is welcome.)

The children come over to dye eggs in the traditional Croatian way. Eggs are tied up with cut pieces of panty hose and pressed with leaves and other items found in the yard. Then they are soaked with yellow onion shells in boiling water.  When they are finished cooking they turn out a beautiful dark crimson color. Then the eggs are rubbed with lard to give it a nice sheen.   It makes for  great family fun and builds to the excitement of Easter.

                                        

After the eggs are finished, we prepare for lunch.  Sanja's father is cooking fish called Šaran na rašljama, over an open flame outside.  Sanja's sister-in-law, Manuela, lays out a fantastic spread.   Plates of homemade sausage, the Šaran fish, fresh cheese with cream, bread...and let's not forget the Rakija are served.  Croatians drink their own version of schnapps called Rakija.  But don't let that fool you.  It's nothing like the sweet and mild liquor served in the U.S.  The best way I can describe it is like pure grain alcohol with a fruit essence.  It's definitely not for amateurs but it is surprisingly good.  Hey, when in Rome...

To walk off our lunch I get a private tour of the town.  The population is small, only about 2,000 people. (and they all seem to know each other) The streets are lined with quaint homes in typical Croatian style.  In the center of town is a beautiful park with a gazebo.  Inside the gazebo are fountains where hot spring water flows.  The water is used for medicinal purposes at the local hospital and spas and bottled at the Studenac bottling company. 

 From just about anywhere in town the smokestack of the Lipik Glass factory can be seen.  Unique minerals found in Lipik make it perfect for glass production. Owned by an Italian company, the glass is produced for Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Ferraris, Aston Martins and MacLarens. It's the main industry and major employer of the town.  Sanja's brother, Igor, works there as well.

As we walk down the streets I get to see first hand the damage the town sustained during the war.  Estates of Croatian wealthy are left abandoned and pock marked by bullets and grenades.  It's a profound and somber experience for me. I am never sure what to say to those who lived it.  

Later, Igor gives me a tour by car up into the green hills and I ask him if I could get out and take photos.  He gives me a determined "no!"  Within minutes I figure out why.  Signs warning of land mines line the streets.  Many homes that were destroyed in this area have been rebuilt.  But their owners left during the war and never returned.   These vacant homes stand as constant reminders of that turbulent time. 

 He then brings me to the famous Lipizzaner Horse Stables for another private tour.  How lucky am I that Sanja's brother is on a first name basis with the stable keeper?  Croatia has more than 200 years of experience breeding these high quality sport horses and has the largest population of Lipizzaner horses in the world.  In 2007, Croatia had more than a thousand Lipizzaners, out of 6000-7000 in the world. 

In 1991, during the War of Independence, 27 of the stallions were killed and 80 stolen by the Serbian Army.  After years of negotiations, petitions that circulated worldwide, and international media coverage,  66 of these horses were returned to Lipik. Only 8 were originals, the rest were the children.  The citizens of Lipik described it as the return of their soul.

Each stable I tour houses a different age group of the Lipizzaner. The foals are born black and as they age turn to grey and then to white.  As I am standing there taking photos one of them comes behind me and nuzzles against my ear.  Another sticks his nose in my camera trying to investigate it. It's hard not to fall in love with these beauties.

  

Finally it's time to leave to return home for dinner.  I sit in the back seat of the car thinking how beautiful the property is.  Right before we exit we pass a large building that has a huge starburst hole in the center, clearly the evidence of a grenade. My brain has a hard time reconciling the images.

We return in time for dinner.  Manuela has prepared another wonderful meal and, of course, more Rakija. When I finally retire to bed  I am completely spent. Staring at the ceiling, listening to the sounds of silence outside I feel so relaxed. It is so incredibly peaceful here that I can practically feel my heart rate slow down. And it appears I am not the only one.  Earlier, as we were driving through a neighborhood, 2 large dogs were sleeping in the middle of the street preventing us from passing.  As we got closer they looked up at us, as if to say "What's the problem?"

The next morning, Easter morning, I get ready before anyone else wakes.  I'm sitting on the edge of the bed when I see Mr. Papić shuffle his feet to the bathroom.  He stops when he sees me and slowly looks up.  Then he gives me a beaming smile and throws up his hand in a wave and exclaims, "Dobro jutro!" (good morning!)  It was really sweet and funny at the same time.

The tradition in Croatia on Easter morning is to greet people by shaking hands, kissing on both cheeks and saying Sretan Uskrs! (Happy Easter) It's great to see EVERYONE do it.  I attend Mass with Igor, Manuela and the kids. It appears most of the town is there.  The children's choir sit in the middle of the church led by a nun.  This nun, who stood close to us,  took her job very seriously.  She would let each of us know if we were not singing loudly enough.  But the hymns were all in Croatian.  So every time the nun would look my way I would sing "watermelon, watermelon" so not to get in trouble.  

After church, we have another fabulous meal.  I'm not sure how Manuela found the time to cook so much great food.  I'm positive I will be leaving Lipik 5 lbs. heavier, though. 

Sadly, it is time to leave.  The whole family is there to give us a proper send off.  Mr. Papić loads me up with homemade honey and Easter eggs.  We hug, say our good byes and make promises for a return visit.  When we drive off into the green countryside, it occurs to me that I will probably never be able to return to Lipik.  Soon I will be leaving Croatia.  But I will forever carry the memory of this lovely town and these lovely people in my heart.