Hiking the Chisos Mountains in Big Bend

When I told people I was traveling to Big Bend, more often than not they would respond with, “Where is that?”  As one of the largest of all the National Parks, Big Bend is one of the least visited.  I suppose that has to do with how remote it is, being located hundreds of miles from any major city.  But if you are looking for a little more solitude and a lot less concrete it is so worth the drive!

Big Bend National Park is located in far west Texas along the border with Mexico where the Rio Grande “bends” through the Chihuahuan desert.  The landscape is rugged, the people are few and the wildlife rules.  Having adapted to the extreme weather and terrain conditions, a unique array of animals and plants thrive there.   More species of birds, cacti and bats reside there than any other park in the United States.  Mountain lions and brown bear roam under cover and herds of javelinas snort about care free.

Coming from Marathon, the drive to the north entrance of the park is about 40 miles.  The long drive into the park through the Chihuahuan desert is breath taking.  You simply must get out of the car to look around.  I kept asking myself how can such a place exist?  While we were far from home we were not THAT far! Fields of blooming cacti in the foreground and ancient rock formations in the background completely surround you.  I have never felt so wonderfully isolated in my whole life. 

Mule Ears Peak in the Chihuahuan Desert

When you arrive to the entrance a park employee will charge you a mere $25 for your entire car load of guests. The fee is good for 7 days.  Think about that for a moment.  A family of say, 5 people, can have a week’s worth of entertainment in nature’s playground for $5 a person. Where else can you do that? You are given a map of the park and the rest is up to you.

We decided to spend one full day hiking the Lost Mine Trail in the Chisos Mountains.  If you only have time to hike one trail this is probably the one.  The trail is not too difficult and the panoramic views are amazing. We stopped at the Ranger station in the Chisos Basin Visitor’s Center to get a trail map and find out where the cougar and bear sightings were.  I’ve been told many times that the black bear are not interested in people.  That is, of course, you don’t stumble onto a momma and her cubs.  The cougars, or sometimes called mountain lions or panthers, are a different story.  Solo hikers and families with small children are strongly discouraged from hiking trails that have recent cougar sightings.

As excited as I was to be in Big Bend and all its natural wonder, I was apprehensive about an unexpected encounter with a creature larger than me. To ease my mind, we decided to bring bear spray we had purchased at Cabela’s.   This is basically pepper spray but with a spraying distance of 40 feet.  While it didn’t say intended for cougars on the can it did give me some peace of mind. 

It was late November and the weather was perfectly mild with a cool mountain breeze.  We had walking sticks on hand and those would prove to be very helpful. The trail begins at 5,600’ elevation and is about 5 miles from beginning to end.   Good hiking boots are a must as most of the trail is steep and rocky. There are plenty of overlook spots to take photos (or pretend you are so you can catch your breath). 

The view from Juniper Canyon

We saw lots of birds, funny road runners on the trail and soaring raptors overhead.  The closest we got to a bear was walking over the scat (poop) along the trail.  There was lots of it and it usually looked pretty fresh.  We heard rattlesnakes in the brush when we would get off the path to take photos so watch where you put your feet!

We were really worn out by the time we got to the top.  There were a few joking comments from other hikers about hoping there was a Starbucks.  But what you see when you get there is far better than any over-priced coffee. The view simply leaves you speechless.  You can see what seems like a 1,000 miles in any direction (and one of those directions is Mexico!)  Because it was November, the low angle of the sun lit up the rich fall colors in the foliage adding to the perfect moment. 

As I was taking photos, I spotted a pretty little cactus sitting in the sun.  I took its photo with the sun shining down creating a nice back light. It struck me what a lucky cactus it was.  It  didn’t need much other than a small amount of water and it gets to sit soaking up the sun in all of God’s splendor every day. A lucky cactus indeed. 

It was time to make the trip back down.  That went a lot faster! We passed hikers that were just starting to make the hike up.  I wondered if they realized they would be hiking in the dark soon.

Thoroughly exhausted, we practically collapsed when we got back to the car.  Giddy from our awesome experience we fumbled for the map to find our way to our next adventure……

Terlingua.

Helpful links: 
Big Bend National Park/ US National Park Service
Visit Big Bend

Big Bend and Marathon

Did you know there is a magical place in Texas with over a million acres of rugged mountains, deep canyons, and awesome vistas? A place where black bears and mountain lions share trails with hikers and bikers? Where you can follow the Rio Grande through the desert and then the mountains for hours and never see another car?  A place where inspiration, beauty, and peacefulness are all competing with each other?

The Big Bend area of West Texas is this place.   And I looked forward to this trip more than almost anything.  The allure of the desert had me hooked and my mind was spinning at all the discovery possibilities.  

“Getting there” should always be a part of the experience.  So we opted for the state highway routes through the Hill Country instead of the interstates. (But if you MUST get there in a hurry I10 or I20 would definitely be the faster options.) This gave us a chance to stop quite often in small towns along the way to have a look around at the old Main Streets and Victorian neighborhoods.

We continued driving southwest towards our first destination, Marathon. As we chased the sun into the horizon the landscape changed from hill country to desert.   The blazing amber sunset backlit all of the desert  brush and was begging me to photograph it.  So, of course, I did.

Once it was dark the world around us became black.   There were no lights from street lamps and no lights from towns in the distance. We could only see what our headlights captured.   We felt alone in the Texas desert and it was spooky and cool at the same time. We weren't alone, though.   There was an entire world of desert life out in the brush just beyond the reach of our headlights.  Every once in a while we would see a mule deer here, a family of javelinas there, and large bunnies zipping around. 

Eventually, we made it to Marathon.    Considered, the Gateway to Big Bend, this town stays alive because of tourism.  It isn’t much more than a post office, soda shop, some funky art shops and oh yeah…The Gage Hotel.

Click here to visit The Gage Hotel

This is one COOL hotel.  Built in 1927, the property consists of pueblo style adobe rooms, casistas and a mission style hotel. Our room had Saltillo tile floors, cowhide rugs, antique Mexican doors, a kiva fireplace and sat outside a beautiful Mexican courtyard. The one thing it didn’t have…a TV.  And I’m so glad it didn’t! Something about feeling slightly cut off from the world added to authenticity of the experience.  

At the back of the property is the Captain Shepard House, also for rent.  Built in 1890, it is named for the man who founded and named Marathon.  Supposedly, the captain named it that because the mountains bore a striking resemblance to those in Marathon, Greece.  I think I should probably go to Greece to confirm this. 

The feeling of being cut off from the world dissipated a bit when we arrived to the restaurant, The 12 Gage. We had reservations and it was a good thing we did, because it was hopping.  The hotel is not that big and it’s literally in the middle of nowhere so I’m not sure where all the people came from.  We were shown to our table where we sat in a cozy corner under a mounted longhorn.  The wine list was extensive and the menu was small but everything was top rate. It was all pretty pricey but it's probably not cheap getting Ahi tuna shipped to the middle of the desert. 

Next to the restaurant is the White Buffalo Bar.   Yes, there is a mounted white buffalo on the wall. It was also filled with people who overflowed into the large patio section where bands play in the summer months.  Everyone seemed to be relaxed and having a good time. That could be due to the extensive tequila selection and fantastic margaritas for which they are known.  

We got up early the next morning to take a walk around the hotel grounds and town. In one of the courtyards is "The Longhorn Wall" where cattle skulls are mounted in the shape of a longhorn head.  That was fun to photograph!

Later we stumbled into the 27 acre Gage Gardens across the railroad tracks. This beautifully landscaped garden with ponds, fountains and bird sanctuary is a real oasis in the desert.  We had a leisurely stroll to enjoy a little bird watching and plan our day. It was the perfect icing on the cake before we headed off to our next destination.

Next…Terlingua and Big Bend National Park

Easter in Lipik

Lipik is a small, sleepy town in the Slavonian region of Croatia.  My friend, Sanja, invited me to spend the Easter weekend at her family home there.  The town is well known for its hot spring water, its Lipizzaner horses and more recently for damage it sustained in the Croatian War of Independence. 

The drive to Lipik is a familiar one.  Not because I have been there before but because of the gorgeous rolling hillsides I have come to know and love.  I could just stare out the car window forever at the landscape that is so green it practically vibrates.  I have to bite my tongue to keep from constantly asking to pullover so I can take photos.  

We arrive Saturday afternoon to Sanja's childhood home.  Her father lives there alone but his son and family live in the adjacent house next door.  It is very common in Croatia for adult children to live with or next to their parents.  All of Sanja's family welcomes me like part of the family and it reminds me of my big Italian family back home.  (Just put some more pasta on the stove, everyone is welcome.)

The children come over to dye eggs in the traditional Croatian way. Eggs are tied up with cut pieces of panty hose and pressed with leaves and other items found in the yard. Then they are soaked with yellow onion shells in boiling water.  When they are finished cooking they turn out a beautiful dark crimson color. Then the eggs are rubbed with lard to give it a nice sheen.   It makes for  great family fun and builds to the excitement of Easter.

                                        

After the eggs are finished, we prepare for lunch.  Sanja's father is cooking fish called Šaran na rašljama, over an open flame outside.  Sanja's sister-in-law, Manuela, lays out a fantastic spread.   Plates of homemade sausage, the Šaran fish, fresh cheese with cream, bread...and let's not forget the Rakija are served.  Croatians drink their own version of schnapps called Rakija.  But don't let that fool you.  It's nothing like the sweet and mild liquor served in the U.S.  The best way I can describe it is like pure grain alcohol with a fruit essence.  It's definitely not for amateurs but it is surprisingly good.  Hey, when in Rome...

To walk off our lunch I get a private tour of the town.  The population is small, only about 2,000 people. (and they all seem to know each other) The streets are lined with quaint homes in typical Croatian style.  In the center of town is a beautiful park with a gazebo.  Inside the gazebo are fountains where hot spring water flows.  The water is used for medicinal purposes at the local hospital and spas and bottled at the Studenac bottling company. 

 From just about anywhere in town the smokestack of the Lipik Glass factory can be seen.  Unique minerals found in Lipik make it perfect for glass production. Owned by an Italian company, the glass is produced for Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Ferraris, Aston Martins and MacLarens. It's the main industry and major employer of the town.  Sanja's brother, Igor, works there as well.

As we walk down the streets I get to see first hand the damage the town sustained during the war.  Estates of Croatian wealthy are left abandoned and pock marked by bullets and grenades.  It's a profound and somber experience for me. I am never sure what to say to those who lived it.  

Later, Igor gives me a tour by car up into the green hills and I ask him if I could get out and take photos.  He gives me a determined "no!"  Within minutes I figure out why.  Signs warning of land mines line the streets.  Many homes that were destroyed in this area have been rebuilt.  But their owners left during the war and never returned.   These vacant homes stand as constant reminders of that turbulent time. 

 He then brings me to the famous Lipizzaner Horse Stables for another private tour.  How lucky am I that Sanja's brother is on a first name basis with the stable keeper?  Croatia has more than 200 years of experience breeding these high quality sport horses and has the largest population of Lipizzaner horses in the world.  In 2007, Croatia had more than a thousand Lipizzaners, out of 6000-7000 in the world. 

In 1991, during the War of Independence, 27 of the stallions were killed and 80 stolen by the Serbian Army.  After years of negotiations, petitions that circulated worldwide, and international media coverage,  66 of these horses were returned to Lipik. Only 8 were originals, the rest were the children.  The citizens of Lipik described it as the return of their soul.

Each stable I tour houses a different age group of the Lipizzaner. The foals are born black and as they age turn to grey and then to white.  As I am standing there taking photos one of them comes behind me and nuzzles against my ear.  Another sticks his nose in my camera trying to investigate it. It's hard not to fall in love with these beauties.

  

Finally it's time to leave to return home for dinner.  I sit in the back seat of the car thinking how beautiful the property is.  Right before we exit we pass a large building that has a huge starburst hole in the center, clearly the evidence of a grenade. My brain has a hard time reconciling the images.

We return in time for dinner.  Manuela has prepared another wonderful meal and, of course, more Rakija. When I finally retire to bed  I am completely spent. Staring at the ceiling, listening to the sounds of silence outside I feel so relaxed. It is so incredibly peaceful here that I can practically feel my heart rate slow down. And it appears I am not the only one.  Earlier, as we were driving through a neighborhood, 2 large dogs were sleeping in the middle of the street preventing us from passing.  As we got closer they looked up at us, as if to say "What's the problem?"

The next morning, Easter morning, I get ready before anyone else wakes.  I'm sitting on the edge of the bed when I see Mr. Papić shuffle his feet to the bathroom.  He stops when he sees me and slowly looks up.  Then he gives me a beaming smile and throws up his hand in a wave and exclaims, "Dobro jutro!" (good morning!)  It was really sweet and funny at the same time.

The tradition in Croatia on Easter morning is to greet people by shaking hands, kissing on both cheeks and saying Sretan Uskrs! (Happy Easter) It's great to see EVERYONE do it.  I attend Mass with Igor, Manuela and the kids. It appears most of the town is there.  The children's choir sit in the middle of the church led by a nun.  This nun, who stood close to us,  took her job very seriously.  She would let each of us know if we were not singing loudly enough.  But the hymns were all in Croatian.  So every time the nun would look my way I would sing "watermelon, watermelon" so not to get in trouble.  

After church, we have another fabulous meal.  I'm not sure how Manuela found the time to cook so much great food.  I'm positive I will be leaving Lipik 5 lbs. heavier, though. 

Sadly, it is time to leave.  The whole family is there to give us a proper send off.  Mr. Papić loads me up with homemade honey and Easter eggs.  We hug, say our good byes and make promises for a return visit.  When we drive off into the green countryside, it occurs to me that I will probably never be able to return to Lipik.  Soon I will be leaving Croatia.  But I will forever carry the memory of this lovely town and these lovely people in my heart.  

The Hills are Alive...with Cowboys

What images pop in your head when you hear the words “dude ranch”? Those of you from Texas could be imagining horseback rides, swimming and campfire singalongs. Those not from Texas might be thinking of a cattle drive across the desert followed by a gun fight at the O.K. Corral.

If you are looking for a unique family getaway while fulfilling your cowboy dreams you might consider a dude ranch in Bandera, Texas. While only a 5 ½ hour drive from Dallas/Ft. Worth, the self-proclaimed “Cowboy Capital of the World” is in the heart of the gorgeous hill country. The winding climb that takes you further and further into the hills is truly one of the most stunning drives in the state. 

Hill Country Landscape

There are several ranches from which to choose. We happened to pick the Flying L Ranch. Built in 1946 as an airport and resort, it is now a 772 acre guest ranch. With villa style lodging and daily meals it offers an impressive selection of activities including horseback riding, hay rides, an 18-hole golf course and water park. (I was a little disappointed there wasn’t skeet shooting and would have gladly traded the golf course.)

After checking in, horseback riding was first on our to-do list. Led by the head wrangler, Tawni, our caravan of horse riders rode along the hill country trails and through creeks. One of our wranglers, Joe Bob, a bona fide cowboy, kept us all entertained with his stories. But don’t let him see you with your camera or taking selfies! These were raw and tricky paths that required your full attention. As the sun was peeking through the canopy of trees on our mild 70 degree day, being distracted by the beauty around us was a bigger problem for me.

The lodge provided breakfast and dinner. So for lunch we went into town. With a population of less than 1,000, Bandera isn’t much more than Main Street and some surrounding neighborhoods. But the street is lined with quaint boutiques and interesting restaurants, all filled with locals and tourists. On Saturdays there is a gun fight performance at the end of Main Street. Local cowboy historians get together in authentic period costume to entertain thrilled children and their parents. And don’t worry if you want to ride your horse into town. Hitching posts are provided in front of each business.

Back at the lodge, guests were loaded up in a tractor pulled wagon and carted off to “The Ghost Town” on the edge of the property. Here we were served a chuck wagon dinner and listened to live country music. Cowboys offered entertainment including whip cracking and archery lessons and herding dog exhibitions. Before we left Ghost Town, the horses were released for their nightly stampede into the pasture. It was a great sight! When we drove back to the lodge, under a sky completely packed with stars, our driver shined a spotlight into the fields and we were able to see antelope, rabbits and herds of deer alongside the path. All the city folk were impressed.

The Ghost Town at the Flying L Ranch

Every night is capped off with sing-alongs around the campfire and making s’mores. Cowboy Buck played his guitar and sang for us. At one point I looked around at the incredible mix of international guests singing to “Burning Ring of Fire”. I thought to myself how awesome it must be for them to return home and tell their friends how they sang Johnny Cash songs at a dude ranch in Texas. 

When it was time to leave we returned home taking state highways instead of the interstate. It gave us the most breathtaking hill country views for most of our journey. It was a thoughtful reminder that such beauty exists in our state. 

Below are my recommendations when visiting Bandera.

Accommodations:

www.flyingl.com  

www.dixieduderanch.com

Dining:

Busbee's Bar B Que

Old Spanish Trail Restaurant

Places to See:

Hill Country State Natural Area 
http://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/hill-country

www.lifedigs.com