It’s been over a year since I left Croatia.  While I only lived here for 4 months, my love for the country grew deep. Now I’m getting to experience it again with my daughter and relive the discoveries through her eyes.

Two weeks ago we arrived to the town of Bjelovar.  This is where I lived and worked last year.  We will be making it our “home base” as we travel around.  I was lucky enough to arrange the stay at my apartment from last year. That really did make it feel like returning home. Getting to visit and reconnect with my friends and some of the students has been a real treat.  I still haven’t run into the old man in my building but I’m really looking forward to seeing  the look on his face when he sees me. 

Not much has changed in the town.  Some of the businesses I remember walking past on the streets are gone and new ones have popped up.  The city’s landmark pavilion in my favorite park is being renovated.  And now there is free WiFi when you sit in that park!  Now it’s my favorite favorite park.

There are still practically more coffee bars than people and still very few restaurants. The law says if you want to serve food, your establishment must be non-smoking.  Bar owners clearly believe they will do more business catering to the smokers than the diners.  So while you can enjoy an espresso or beer just about anywhere in town during all of the waking hours, you should probably eat before you leave home.  An added note about WiFi…All of these establishments offer free WiFi and because I’ve drank coffee at so many of them it’s like I have free WiFi all over town.  Everywhere I go my phone is dinging from the internet connections it’s making.  It’s really kind of funny. 

My favorite restaurant is still Restaran Bjelovar.  They serve the best pizza I’ve had in Europe and it instantly became my daughter’s favorite.  Now to be fair, it’s the ONLY  restaurant she has been to so far but she does request it everyday.   The menu is in Croatian only but pretty easy to figure out.  My daughter orders the Quattro Formaggio. How can you go wrong there?  That’s not even Croatian.  And I just order anything that doesn’t have the word jaje (egg) in it.  Yes, that exists.  The pizza is served uncut and I think most people eat it with a knife and fork.  The building is very old with the original brick on the inside.  It definitely adds to the whole dining experience. 

We have driven through and visited the beautiful countryside that surrounds Bjelovar several times.  This was always my favorite part.  I can never get enough of looking at the village homes with flowers exploding from every window backdropped by green rolling hills with the big yellow church as the focal point. It always makes me want to say, “Stop the car!!!"

Next blog…We travel!

Remembering the Alamo...A Trip to San Antonio

People all around the world are fascinated with Texas.  Every time I travel, people’s eyes light up when they find out I’m a Texan.  But The Lone Star State is somewhat of a mystery to those not from these parts.  Visions of the desert and gun-slinging-horse-riding cowboys fill many heads.  Sometimes the entire extent of their knowledge is based on JFK or J.R. Ewing.  You may shake your head at that, but what do you really remember of seventh grade Texas History class? What makes our state and its history so important anyway?

On New Year’s Day, I drove down to San Antonio to spend a couple of days taking in the sights of the downtown area.  Sure I’ve been to the Alamo and walked the famous River Walk before.  I’ve even been splashed by an orca or two at SeaWorld.  But as the years have passed, I have certainly forgotten what a historical powerhouse this country’s 7^th largest city is.  Yes, I HAVE forgotten the Alamo.

I stayed in a hotel along the San Antonio River in downtown which gave me front door, er…backdoor, access to the River Walk.  Because it was Christmas time, the thousands of cypress trees that landscape the walk were dripping with multi-colored lights.  I was excited to get to explore the paths of the stone lined river and peak into the art galleries and quaint shops.

The three days I was there, an unusual mix of wintery weather welcomed Kansas State fans for the Alamo Bowl. Freezing temperatures didn’t slow down these folks.  Every restaurant I passed was filled with purple clad-margarita sipping football fans…even in the early morning hours.  

The River Walk is actually below the streets of downtown San Antonio.  It offers easy access to places like the Alamo, San Antonio Museum of Art and Market Square. A mass development project in the 1900’s transformed the downtown area into the vibrant tourist district it is today.  It is also the nation’s largest urban ecosystem.

At some point you will want to climb up the steps from the River Walk onto the city streets and find the Alamo.  It’s less than a 10 minute walk.   If you were expecting grand and heart stopping you might be disappointed. As you turn the corner into the Alamo Plaza, you find yourself standing in front of a very average size building.  Time has eroded the original compound that once covered almost three acres.  But what it lacks in size it certainly makes up for in importance.  Built as a mission in 1718, it would be another 100 years before it would rightfully earn a prominent place in Texas history.

For those of us who have forgotten everything they learned in their middle school Texas history class, there is a historical timeline on the property detailing every battle leading up to Texas winning its independence from Mexico to be its own country.  

Of course, all of its history is important.  But one battle was different.   The Battle of the Alamo was a place where volunteer soldiers took on impossible odds to fight Mexican forces led by Santa Anna.  It resulted in the loss of lives of all of its nearly 200 defenders but it significantly slowed down Santa Anna’s army. Their courage and sacrifice inspired and rallied latter forces in subsequent battles to beat the invaders.  Today the battle cry,  Remember the Alamo, and the mission represent freedom and all who fight for it. 

Today the shrine remains hallowed ground.  As you stand in line to enter the mission Rules of Reverence are posted before you: 

• Gentlemen, please remove your hats inside the Shrine.

• No open containers are allowed inside the buildings.

• No food or drinks are allowed inside the buildings.

• Photography is not allowed inside the buildings.

• No camera or cell phone use is permitted inside the buildings.

• Please do not touch the walls or display cases inside the Shrine.

• No pets are allowed on Alamo Grounds (service animals allowed).

• No restrooms inside the Shrine. Public restrooms located at back of grounds.

• No obscene or offensive clothing is allowed.

• No bikes or skateboards are allowed on the grounds.

• Please lower your voice when speaking.

• No unauthorized weapons are allowed. CHL allowed with permit.

• Ice chests are allowed but must not be left unattended at any time.

Yes, you read that right.  Cell phones are not allowed, but guns are. (For my foreign readers: CHL is a concealed handgun license.  You can lawfully carry a concealed gun on your body with the proper training and license in Texas.)

Once you feel you have adequately enriched your mind, head over to the Market Square and enrich your senses. This 3 block indoor market is full of authentic shops, restaurants and culture.  Mariachi bands, handcrafted works of art and gourmet Mexican food await you.  I bought my son an authentic sombrero.  I got some funny looks from the people I was with.  “Trust me,” I said.  “He will love it.”  And that he did!

So next time you travel to (or through) San Antonio, be sure and take some time to visit the downtown area.  Peaceful strolls on the River Walk and margaritas backdropped with Mariachi music are for sure in your future.  But don’t forget to visit The Alamo (and the other missions!) while you are there.  You will leave with your chest slightly  puffed up, proud to be a Texan. 

The Daughters of the Republic of Texas have been the caretakers of the Alamo since 1905.  For more information visit http://www.drtinfo.org