Big Bend and Marathon

Did you know there is a magical place in Texas with over a million acres of rugged mountains, deep canyons, and awesome vistas? A place where black bears and mountain lions share trails with hikers and bikers? Where you can follow the Rio Grande through the desert and then the mountains for hours and never see another car?  A place where inspiration, beauty, and peacefulness are all competing with each other?

The Big Bend area of West Texas is this place.   And I looked forward to this trip more than almost anything.  The allure of the desert had me hooked and my mind was spinning at all the discovery possibilities.  

“Getting there” should always be a part of the experience.  So we opted for the state highway routes through the Hill Country instead of the interstates. (But if you MUST get there in a hurry I10 or I20 would definitely be the faster options.) This gave us a chance to stop quite often in small towns along the way to have a look around at the old Main Streets and Victorian neighborhoods.

We continued driving southwest towards our first destination, Marathon. As we chased the sun into the horizon the landscape changed from hill country to desert.   The blazing amber sunset backlit all of the desert  brush and was begging me to photograph it.  So, of course, I did.

Once it was dark the world around us became black.   There were no lights from street lamps and no lights from towns in the distance. We could only see what our headlights captured.   We felt alone in the Texas desert and it was spooky and cool at the same time. We weren't alone, though.   There was an entire world of desert life out in the brush just beyond the reach of our headlights.  Every once in a while we would see a mule deer here, a family of javelinas there, and large bunnies zipping around. 

Eventually, we made it to Marathon.    Considered, the Gateway to Big Bend, this town stays alive because of tourism.  It isn’t much more than a post office, soda shop, some funky art shops and oh yeah…The Gage Hotel.

Click here to visit The Gage Hotel

This is one COOL hotel.  Built in 1927, the property consists of pueblo style adobe rooms, casistas and a mission style hotel. Our room had Saltillo tile floors, cowhide rugs, antique Mexican doors, a kiva fireplace and sat outside a beautiful Mexican courtyard. The one thing it didn’t have…a TV.  And I’m so glad it didn’t! Something about feeling slightly cut off from the world added to authenticity of the experience.  

At the back of the property is the Captain Shepard House, also for rent.  Built in 1890, it is named for the man who founded and named Marathon.  Supposedly, the captain named it that because the mountains bore a striking resemblance to those in Marathon, Greece.  I think I should probably go to Greece to confirm this. 

The feeling of being cut off from the world dissipated a bit when we arrived to the restaurant, The 12 Gage. We had reservations and it was a good thing we did, because it was hopping.  The hotel is not that big and it’s literally in the middle of nowhere so I’m not sure where all the people came from.  We were shown to our table where we sat in a cozy corner under a mounted longhorn.  The wine list was extensive and the menu was small but everything was top rate. It was all pretty pricey but it's probably not cheap getting Ahi tuna shipped to the middle of the desert. 

Next to the restaurant is the White Buffalo Bar.   Yes, there is a mounted white buffalo on the wall. It was also filled with people who overflowed into the large patio section where bands play in the summer months.  Everyone seemed to be relaxed and having a good time. That could be due to the extensive tequila selection and fantastic margaritas for which they are known.  

We got up early the next morning to take a walk around the hotel grounds and town. In one of the courtyards is "The Longhorn Wall" where cattle skulls are mounted in the shape of a longhorn head.  That was fun to photograph!

Later we stumbled into the 27 acre Gage Gardens across the railroad tracks. This beautifully landscaped garden with ponds, fountains and bird sanctuary is a real oasis in the desert.  We had a leisurely stroll to enjoy a little bird watching and plan our day. It was the perfect icing on the cake before we headed off to our next destination.

Next…Terlingua and Big Bend National Park

Easter in Lipik

Lipik is a small, sleepy town in the Slavonian region of Croatia.  My friend, Sanja, invited me to spend the Easter weekend at her family home there.  The town is well known for its hot spring water, its Lipizzaner horses and more recently for damage it sustained in the Croatian War of Independence. 

The drive to Lipik is a familiar one.  Not because I have been there before but because of the gorgeous rolling hillsides I have come to know and love.  I could just stare out the car window forever at the landscape that is so green it practically vibrates.  I have to bite my tongue to keep from constantly asking to pullover so I can take photos.  

We arrive Saturday afternoon to Sanja's childhood home.  Her father lives there alone but his son and family live in the adjacent house next door.  It is very common in Croatia for adult children to live with or next to their parents.  All of Sanja's family welcomes me like part of the family and it reminds me of my big Italian family back home.  (Just put some more pasta on the stove, everyone is welcome.)

The children come over to dye eggs in the traditional Croatian way. Eggs are tied up with cut pieces of panty hose and pressed with leaves and other items found in the yard. Then they are soaked with yellow onion shells in boiling water.  When they are finished cooking they turn out a beautiful dark crimson color. Then the eggs are rubbed with lard to give it a nice sheen.   It makes for  great family fun and builds to the excitement of Easter.

                                        

After the eggs are finished, we prepare for lunch.  Sanja's father is cooking fish called Šaran na rašljama, over an open flame outside.  Sanja's sister-in-law, Manuela, lays out a fantastic spread.   Plates of homemade sausage, the Šaran fish, fresh cheese with cream, bread...and let's not forget the Rakija are served.  Croatians drink their own version of schnapps called Rakija.  But don't let that fool you.  It's nothing like the sweet and mild liquor served in the U.S.  The best way I can describe it is like pure grain alcohol with a fruit essence.  It's definitely not for amateurs but it is surprisingly good.  Hey, when in Rome...

To walk off our lunch I get a private tour of the town.  The population is small, only about 2,000 people. (and they all seem to know each other) The streets are lined with quaint homes in typical Croatian style.  In the center of town is a beautiful park with a gazebo.  Inside the gazebo are fountains where hot spring water flows.  The water is used for medicinal purposes at the local hospital and spas and bottled at the Studenac bottling company. 

 From just about anywhere in town the smokestack of the Lipik Glass factory can be seen.  Unique minerals found in Lipik make it perfect for glass production. Owned by an Italian company, the glass is produced for Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Ferraris, Aston Martins and MacLarens. It's the main industry and major employer of the town.  Sanja's brother, Igor, works there as well.

As we walk down the streets I get to see first hand the damage the town sustained during the war.  Estates of Croatian wealthy are left abandoned and pock marked by bullets and grenades.  It's a profound and somber experience for me. I am never sure what to say to those who lived it.  

Later, Igor gives me a tour by car up into the green hills and I ask him if I could get out and take photos.  He gives me a determined "no!"  Within minutes I figure out why.  Signs warning of land mines line the streets.  Many homes that were destroyed in this area have been rebuilt.  But their owners left during the war and never returned.   These vacant homes stand as constant reminders of that turbulent time. 

 He then brings me to the famous Lipizzaner Horse Stables for another private tour.  How lucky am I that Sanja's brother is on a first name basis with the stable keeper?  Croatia has more than 200 years of experience breeding these high quality sport horses and has the largest population of Lipizzaner horses in the world.  In 2007, Croatia had more than a thousand Lipizzaners, out of 6000-7000 in the world. 

In 1991, during the War of Independence, 27 of the stallions were killed and 80 stolen by the Serbian Army.  After years of negotiations, petitions that circulated worldwide, and international media coverage,  66 of these horses were returned to Lipik. Only 8 were originals, the rest were the children.  The citizens of Lipik described it as the return of their soul.

Each stable I tour houses a different age group of the Lipizzaner. The foals are born black and as they age turn to grey and then to white.  As I am standing there taking photos one of them comes behind me and nuzzles against my ear.  Another sticks his nose in my camera trying to investigate it. It's hard not to fall in love with these beauties.

  

Finally it's time to leave to return home for dinner.  I sit in the back seat of the car thinking how beautiful the property is.  Right before we exit we pass a large building that has a huge starburst hole in the center, clearly the evidence of a grenade. My brain has a hard time reconciling the images.

We return in time for dinner.  Manuela has prepared another wonderful meal and, of course, more Rakija. When I finally retire to bed  I am completely spent. Staring at the ceiling, listening to the sounds of silence outside I feel so relaxed. It is so incredibly peaceful here that I can practically feel my heart rate slow down. And it appears I am not the only one.  Earlier, as we were driving through a neighborhood, 2 large dogs were sleeping in the middle of the street preventing us from passing.  As we got closer they looked up at us, as if to say "What's the problem?"

The next morning, Easter morning, I get ready before anyone else wakes.  I'm sitting on the edge of the bed when I see Mr. Papić shuffle his feet to the bathroom.  He stops when he sees me and slowly looks up.  Then he gives me a beaming smile and throws up his hand in a wave and exclaims, "Dobro jutro!" (good morning!)  It was really sweet and funny at the same time.

The tradition in Croatia on Easter morning is to greet people by shaking hands, kissing on both cheeks and saying Sretan Uskrs! (Happy Easter) It's great to see EVERYONE do it.  I attend Mass with Igor, Manuela and the kids. It appears most of the town is there.  The children's choir sit in the middle of the church led by a nun.  This nun, who stood close to us,  took her job very seriously.  She would let each of us know if we were not singing loudly enough.  But the hymns were all in Croatian.  So every time the nun would look my way I would sing "watermelon, watermelon" so not to get in trouble.  

After church, we have another fabulous meal.  I'm not sure how Manuela found the time to cook so much great food.  I'm positive I will be leaving Lipik 5 lbs. heavier, though. 

Sadly, it is time to leave.  The whole family is there to give us a proper send off.  Mr. Papić loads me up with homemade honey and Easter eggs.  We hug, say our good byes and make promises for a return visit.  When we drive off into the green countryside, it occurs to me that I will probably never be able to return to Lipik.  Soon I will be leaving Croatia.  But I will forever carry the memory of this lovely town and these lovely people in my heart.  

The Hills are Alive...with Cowboys

What images pop in your head when you hear the words “dude ranch”? Those of you from Texas could be imagining horseback rides, swimming and campfire singalongs. Those not from Texas might be thinking of a cattle drive across the desert followed by a gun fight at the O.K. Corral.

If you are looking for a unique family getaway while fulfilling your cowboy dreams you might consider a dude ranch in Bandera, Texas. While only a 5 ½ hour drive from Dallas/Ft. Worth, the self-proclaimed “Cowboy Capital of the World” is in the heart of the gorgeous hill country. The winding climb that takes you further and further into the hills is truly one of the most stunning drives in the state. 

Hill Country Landscape

There are several ranches from which to choose. We happened to pick the Flying L Ranch. Built in 1946 as an airport and resort, it is now a 772 acre guest ranch. With villa style lodging and daily meals it offers an impressive selection of activities including horseback riding, hay rides, an 18-hole golf course and water park. (I was a little disappointed there wasn’t skeet shooting and would have gladly traded the golf course.)

After checking in, horseback riding was first on our to-do list. Led by the head wrangler, Tawni, our caravan of horse riders rode along the hill country trails and through creeks. One of our wranglers, Joe Bob, a bona fide cowboy, kept us all entertained with his stories. But don’t let him see you with your camera or taking selfies! These were raw and tricky paths that required your full attention. As the sun was peeking through the canopy of trees on our mild 70 degree day, being distracted by the beauty around us was a bigger problem for me.

The lodge provided breakfast and dinner. So for lunch we went into town. With a population of less than 1,000, Bandera isn’t much more than Main Street and some surrounding neighborhoods. But the street is lined with quaint boutiques and interesting restaurants, all filled with locals and tourists. On Saturdays there is a gun fight performance at the end of Main Street. Local cowboy historians get together in authentic period costume to entertain thrilled children and their parents. And don’t worry if you want to ride your horse into town. Hitching posts are provided in front of each business.

Back at the lodge, guests were loaded up in a tractor pulled wagon and carted off to “The Ghost Town” on the edge of the property. Here we were served a chuck wagon dinner and listened to live country music. Cowboys offered entertainment including whip cracking and archery lessons and herding dog exhibitions. Before we left Ghost Town, the horses were released for their nightly stampede into the pasture. It was a great sight! When we drove back to the lodge, under a sky completely packed with stars, our driver shined a spotlight into the fields and we were able to see antelope, rabbits and herds of deer alongside the path. All the city folk were impressed.

The Ghost Town at the Flying L Ranch

Every night is capped off with sing-alongs around the campfire and making s’mores. Cowboy Buck played his guitar and sang for us. At one point I looked around at the incredible mix of international guests singing to “Burning Ring of Fire”. I thought to myself how awesome it must be for them to return home and tell their friends how they sang Johnny Cash songs at a dude ranch in Texas. 

When it was time to leave we returned home taking state highways instead of the interstate. It gave us the most breathtaking hill country views for most of our journey. It was a thoughtful reminder that such beauty exists in our state. 

Below are my recommendations when visiting Bandera.

Accommodations:

www.flyingl.com  

www.dixieduderanch.com

Dining:

Busbee's Bar B Que

Old Spanish Trail Restaurant

Places to See:

Hill Country State Natural Area 
http://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/hill-country

www.lifedigs.com

It’s been over a year since I left Croatia.  While I only lived here for 4 months, my love for the country grew deep. Now I’m getting to experience it again with my daughter and relive the discoveries through her eyes.

Two weeks ago we arrived to the town of Bjelovar.  This is where I lived and worked last year.  We will be making it our “home base” as we travel around.  I was lucky enough to arrange the stay at my apartment from last year. That really did make it feel like returning home. Getting to visit and reconnect with my friends and some of the students has been a real treat.  I still haven’t run into the old man in my building but I’m really looking forward to seeing  the look on his face when he sees me. 

Not much has changed in the town.  Some of the businesses I remember walking past on the streets are gone and new ones have popped up.  The city’s landmark pavilion in my favorite park is being renovated.  And now there is free WiFi when you sit in that park!  Now it’s my favorite favorite park.

There are still practically more coffee bars than people and still very few restaurants. The law says if you want to serve food, your establishment must be non-smoking.  Bar owners clearly believe they will do more business catering to the smokers than the diners.  So while you can enjoy an espresso or beer just about anywhere in town during all of the waking hours, you should probably eat before you leave home.  An added note about WiFi…All of these establishments offer free WiFi and because I’ve drank coffee at so many of them it’s like I have free WiFi all over town.  Everywhere I go my phone is dinging from the internet connections it’s making.  It’s really kind of funny. 

My favorite restaurant is still Restaran Bjelovar.  They serve the best pizza I’ve had in Europe and it instantly became my daughter’s favorite.  Now to be fair, it’s the ONLY  restaurant she has been to so far but she does request it everyday.   The menu is in Croatian only but pretty easy to figure out.  My daughter orders the Quattro Formaggio. How can you go wrong there?  That’s not even Croatian.  And I just order anything that doesn’t have the word jaje (egg) in it.  Yes, that exists.  The pizza is served uncut and I think most people eat it with a knife and fork.  The building is very old with the original brick on the inside.  It definitely adds to the whole dining experience. 

We have driven through and visited the beautiful countryside that surrounds Bjelovar several times.  This was always my favorite part.  I can never get enough of looking at the village homes with flowers exploding from every window backdropped by green rolling hills with the big yellow church as the focal point. It always makes me want to say, “Stop the car!!!"

Next blog…We travel!

Remembering the Alamo...A Trip to San Antonio

People all around the world are fascinated with Texas.  Every time I travel, people’s eyes light up when they find out I’m a Texan.  But The Lone Star State is somewhat of a mystery to those not from these parts.  Visions of the desert and gun-slinging-horse-riding cowboys fill many heads.  Sometimes the entire extent of their knowledge is based on JFK or J.R. Ewing.  You may shake your head at that, but what do you really remember of seventh grade Texas History class? What makes our state and its history so important anyway?

On New Year’s Day, I drove down to San Antonio to spend a couple of days taking in the sights of the downtown area.  Sure I’ve been to the Alamo and walked the famous River Walk before.  I’ve even been splashed by an orca or two at SeaWorld.  But as the years have passed, I have certainly forgotten what a historical powerhouse this country’s 7^th largest city is.  Yes, I HAVE forgotten the Alamo.

I stayed in a hotel along the San Antonio River in downtown which gave me front door, er…backdoor, access to the River Walk.  Because it was Christmas time, the thousands of cypress trees that landscape the walk were dripping with multi-colored lights.  I was excited to get to explore the paths of the stone lined river and peak into the art galleries and quaint shops.

The three days I was there, an unusual mix of wintery weather welcomed Kansas State fans for the Alamo Bowl. Freezing temperatures didn’t slow down these folks.  Every restaurant I passed was filled with purple clad-margarita sipping football fans…even in the early morning hours.  

The River Walk is actually below the streets of downtown San Antonio.  It offers easy access to places like the Alamo, San Antonio Museum of Art and Market Square. A mass development project in the 1900’s transformed the downtown area into the vibrant tourist district it is today.  It is also the nation’s largest urban ecosystem.

At some point you will want to climb up the steps from the River Walk onto the city streets and find the Alamo.  It’s less than a 10 minute walk.   If you were expecting grand and heart stopping you might be disappointed. As you turn the corner into the Alamo Plaza, you find yourself standing in front of a very average size building.  Time has eroded the original compound that once covered almost three acres.  But what it lacks in size it certainly makes up for in importance.  Built as a mission in 1718, it would be another 100 years before it would rightfully earn a prominent place in Texas history.

For those of us who have forgotten everything they learned in their middle school Texas history class, there is a historical timeline on the property detailing every battle leading up to Texas winning its independence from Mexico to be its own country.  

Of course, all of its history is important.  But one battle was different.   The Battle of the Alamo was a place where volunteer soldiers took on impossible odds to fight Mexican forces led by Santa Anna.  It resulted in the loss of lives of all of its nearly 200 defenders but it significantly slowed down Santa Anna’s army. Their courage and sacrifice inspired and rallied latter forces in subsequent battles to beat the invaders.  Today the battle cry,  Remember the Alamo, and the mission represent freedom and all who fight for it. 

Today the shrine remains hallowed ground.  As you stand in line to enter the mission Rules of Reverence are posted before you: 

• Gentlemen, please remove your hats inside the Shrine.

• No open containers are allowed inside the buildings.

• No food or drinks are allowed inside the buildings.

• Photography is not allowed inside the buildings.

• No camera or cell phone use is permitted inside the buildings.

• Please do not touch the walls or display cases inside the Shrine.

• No pets are allowed on Alamo Grounds (service animals allowed).

• No restrooms inside the Shrine. Public restrooms located at back of grounds.

• No obscene or offensive clothing is allowed.

• No bikes or skateboards are allowed on the grounds.

• Please lower your voice when speaking.

• No unauthorized weapons are allowed. CHL allowed with permit.

• Ice chests are allowed but must not be left unattended at any time.

Yes, you read that right.  Cell phones are not allowed, but guns are. (For my foreign readers: CHL is a concealed handgun license.  You can lawfully carry a concealed gun on your body with the proper training and license in Texas.)

Once you feel you have adequately enriched your mind, head over to the Market Square and enrich your senses. This 3 block indoor market is full of authentic shops, restaurants and culture.  Mariachi bands, handcrafted works of art and gourmet Mexican food await you.  I bought my son an authentic sombrero.  I got some funny looks from the people I was with.  “Trust me,” I said.  “He will love it.”  And that he did!

So next time you travel to (or through) San Antonio, be sure and take some time to visit the downtown area.  Peaceful strolls on the River Walk and margaritas backdropped with Mariachi music are for sure in your future.  But don’t forget to visit The Alamo (and the other missions!) while you are there.  You will leave with your chest slightly  puffed up, proud to be a Texan. 

The Daughters of the Republic of Texas have been the caretakers of the Alamo since 1905.  For more information visit http://www.drtinfo.org